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EQUIPMENT
By Capt. Dan Berg
 The equipment used in wreck diving will vary from location to
location. On shallow scattered wrecks, a single tank of air may be
sufficient, but on intact or deeper offshore shipwrecks,
double
tanks, plus a
pony bottle may be necessary. Diving in the warm clear
waters of the Caribbean may only require a bathing suit, but
New
Jersey divers often choose to wear dry suits all year round. Take
this into consideration as we discuss the equipment needed for wreck
diving. The selection of wreck diving equipment is also a highly
individual matter. Just remember, we want to stream line ourselves
as much as possible in order to reduce drag, permit easier swimming
with less fatigue, and eliminate the possibility of becoming
snagged.
A wreck diver's equipment consists of the necessary thermal
protection for the area, safety equipment needed for depth, and
whatever gear is needed to safely dive his plan. For example, if a
diver is planning a dive to 100 feet to penetrate into the wreck's
interior to take photographs, he will need the proper supply of air
which would be accomplished by carrying double tanks. For his
penetration he will need a
tether line reel, a
main dive light, back up
lights, dive knives and most importantly the knowledge and
mental
attitude to function in an overhead environment. Lastly, he will
need his
camera gear. All of this equipment must be located so it is
easily accessible and will not be dangling, possibly causing the
diver to get snagged. Dangling equipment is also more likely to get
damaged, and it is certainly not easily located when needed. There
are few hard fast rules regarding the location of items such as back
up lights and line reels, but all divers should carefully plan
where each piece of gear is to be placed. For example, a back up
light is useless, unless it can be easily and quickly located even
in the worst conditions. I have always been amazed at how ingenious
other divers are in the location of such items. Next time you're on
a charter boat, take a look around at how each diver's gear is set
up. If you see anything interesting, ask how it works or why it's
rigged in that manner. Remember, the only stupid question is the one
that is never asked.
 It's also a good idea to mark each piece of your equipment with your
name. This is very important on busy charter boats when everyone has
gear that is similar. Marking your equipment also comes in handy
when something is lost, so that if found, it can be returned. Let's
start now by examining some basic dive equipment and some
modifications that are used in this exciting sport of wreck diving.
THERMAL PROTECTION
Wet Suits
Dry Suits
 It doesn't matter what area or type of wreck you're diving, some
sort of thermal protection will surely need to be worn. As we all
learned in our certification class, water conducts heat away from
our bodies 25 times faster than air. Depending on the temperature
and depth of the water you're diving in, exposure suits will vary
drastically in design, thickness and thermal protection. In the
Caribbean, divers may choose to wear a lycra suit or a 1/8 inch
short wet suit. Northeast divers prefer 1/4 inch wet suits with
hood, boots, and gloves or dry suits. Dry suits also come in many
designs and materials. Basically you get what you pay for, so get
the warmest proper fitting suit that also fits your budget. It is
very important to be warm and comfortable while diving to better
enjoy yourself. Note that most shipwrecks look more like huge junk
yards scattered across the ocean floor. This wreckage is anything
but delicate on exposure suits, especially in the knee area. Bill
Campbell, a good friend of mine, started to wear knee pads made from
old car tire tubes over his suit. He found that with this simple
addition his dry suit, or wet suit, would last twice as long, which
saves quite a bit of money over the course of a few years. Another
added benefit from these tight fitting flexible knee pads is that
they inhibit some air from entering the feet of dry suits. This
reduced buoyancy in the foot area allows for easier swimming and
amore comfortable dive. Other divers compensate by wearing ankle
weights while wearing dry suits. Others go a little further than
Bill and wear painters overalls over their suit to protect it from
the abrasiveness of the wrecks. Divers who do repetitive cold water
dives in wet suits should try bringing a thermos of warm water and
pouring a little into your boots and gloves before your second dive.
This trick also works well if your suit has not had a chance to dry
from the previous days dive. Dry suit divers who find their arms
constantly getting wet should try taping the neoprene wrist seals
with electrical tape. Do not use duct tape as it is not elastic and
may rip the suit when being removed. I have this problem because my
wrists are very small, and whenever I work on an artifact, a small
channel on my wrist allows water to leak into the suit. When taping
the wrist seals, do not make them too tight or your circulation may
be cut off. I also recommend folding the last inch of tape back into
itself. This creates a small pull tap which makes the tape easier to
grab and pull off later. This tab is especially helpful if the tape
was accidentally wound too tightly and you have to readjust it while
underwater. Another common modification is to dry suit hoods. Most
divers use a hot nail to puncture and seal a small hole in the back
of the hood. This hole allows air that would get trapped in the hood
to escape. Remember the hole should be in the upper back of the
hood.
MASK
Any mask that fits properly is perfectly suitable for wreck diving.
If you are near or farsighted, you may consider one of the
prescription masks now available over the counter at almost all dive
shops. Since many wrecks are accessible only by boat, divers will
find they have to make a variety of different entries to get into
the water. For this reason it is advisable to wear the mask strap
inside your wet or dry suit hood. In case a wave or dive entry rips
the mask off, usually the mask will not have been lost but still
held on slightly by the hood.
FINS
A diver's fins area very basic piece of his equipment, and nothing
has to be modified for them to be suitable for wreck diving.
However, many shipwrecks are in cold waters where divers are forced
to wear heavy gloves or mitts. In this type of environment, it can
be very difficult to put on or take off your fins. To make this task
a little easier, many divers add a pull tab onto the strap of each
fin. This tab can be made from a small length of nylon belt material
sewn into a loop over the fin strap, or store bought designs are
available in dive shops. The tab allows for easy location and for
something easy to grab in order to pull on the fin strap. For divers
in warmer waters, the tab will not be appreciated as much, but it
will still be an improvement.
REGULATORS
 Although there is no one brand of regulator that is recommended for
wreck diving, divers who are planning to explore wrecks should make
sure that their regulator hoses are streamlined. Route all hoses as
close to your body as possible. Depending on the regulator model,
this can be easy or may require the use of wire ties or velcro
straps. The idea is to reduce the chance of a snag.
Divers should also be able to distinguish between second stages.
This is extremely important, especially when using double tanks or a
pony bottle. If the second stages were not marked, the diver could
easily suck his pony dry while thinking he was using his main tank.
There are many methods of identification. One way is to use a
different style or color for the second stage or use color coded
hose protectors. This can be carried one step further by color
coding the corresponding pressure gauge with the same color.
 The placement of a
pony bottle, octopus or the use of a double tank
system with twin regulators is often wasted because divers don't
take the time to mount the second stage in a convenient and easily
reached, secure location. Having the mouthpiece float behind you or
drag in the mud is worse than not having one at all. Not only does
such equipment get clogged, but it's also not easily located when
needed. Your alternate air sources have to be located around your
chest area. In fact, if you were to draw an imaginary triangle from
your waist up to your shoulders, your extra second stages should be
mounted within it. Each must have a quick disconnect release. This
means that you should never store your octopus in a buoyancy
compensator pocket because it takes too long to get it out when it's
needed. There are a number of quick releases on the market, all
available at your local dive shop. If you cannot locate one, use an
alligator clip. Attach it to your buoyancy compensator, and then
clip the exhaust port plastic into its jaws. This clip will hold the
2nd stage firmly in place, yet when it's needed, the diver only has
to pull firmly. Another method is to secure the regulator's second
stage to a loop of surgical tubing worn around your neck. There is
no searching around for your alternate air source because it's
always directly under your chin.
O-RINGS
O-rings made out of silicone are recommended because they have a
longer life and are more durable than o-rings made of rubber.
BOTTOM TIMERS
Redundancy is certainly the rule when it comes to wreck diving.
Since many wrecks are located in deep water, two bottom timers are
mandatory. These timers can be part of another gauge or
decompression meter just as long as they are easy to read and
accurate. Bottom timers can be mounted on a console, on your wrist
or even strapped to the deflator hose of a buoyancy compensator,
anywhere that it's easily located.
DECOMPRESSION TABLES
Wreck divers are ingenious at combining the functions of more than
one piece of equipment. They do this in order to lessen the amount
of bulk carried or for ease of location. One of the most common of
these adaptations is to install a set of decompression tables inside
a clear dive light housing. These tables are easily read while
underwater without fumbling around while looking for them in a
buoyancy compensator pocket. An added benefit comes from the tables
lasting longer because they are not exposed to the marine
environment but rather concealed and protected in a dry housing.
MULTI
LEVEL DIVE COMPUTERS
Although having a dive computer is by no means mandatory, wreck
diving equipment divers have found these compact gauges to be worth
their weight in gold. Many types and styles are available. I
recommend a meter that in bold digital numbers tells you exactly
where you are and how much if any decompression is needed. This
information should not have to be interpolated; it should be
digital. Personally, I always compute each dive beforehand without
the computer. I then make the dive and use the most conservative
number. For example, if the multi-level dive computer tells me it's
safe to ascend with no decompression stops, but the dive tables tell
me to stop, I make the stop. If the tables say it's OK and the
computer says to stop, I stop. I also throw in a five minute safety
hang at twenty feet as an extra security measure. I call this
computer assisted diving. It is also a good idea to start your dive
at the deepest level you want to explore and finish shallower.
Remember the dive computer is just a tool; use it wisely, and it
will enhance your enjoyment of the sport. Aside from calculating
multi-level diving, the dive computer is an excellent and extremely
accurate bottom timer and depth recorder. Other benefits of many
computers include ascent rate monitor, surface interval timer, dive
log, time before flying, and a repetitive dive depth no
decompression time scroll.
GAUGE CONSOLE
 Consoles are very popular in all types of diving. By utilizing a
console, a diver can quickly scan all of his gauges at one time.
Consoles range from small two gauge units to rigs that hold five or
six gauges. Consoles can also provide an easily located spot for
mounting a dive slate and back up knife.
GLOVES AND
MITTS
In colder waters when gloves or mitts are worn, the abrasiveness of
wreck diving can usually be noticed quickly on the finger tips.
After only a few dives, chunks of neoprene seem to vanish, leaving
only cold bare flesh to face the elements. To increase the life of
neoprene gloves or mitts, I recommend using a thin coat of aqua seal
glue on the finger tip area of each glove. Be careful not to apply
too much glue, or you will lose dexterity to the stiff hardening
substance.
To properly apply, squeeze a small portion onto a paper plate, then
with a plastic knife spread the glue onto each desired area. Without
any delay, scrape off as much of the glue as possible leaving only a
thin abrasive resistant coating. This coating will quite easily
double if not triple the life of your gloves.
WEIGHT BELT
 The equipment used in wreck penetration is different from any other
type of diving. Take weight belts, for example. We have always been
taught that a weight belt is an expendable piece of equipment and
should be able to be dropped quickly in an emergency situation.
Wreck divers who explore the exterior of ships also need to be able
to easily drop their weight belts, but when doing wreck penetration
a diver never wants to drop his weights. The reason is simple: A
diver's weights compensate for the positive buoyancy of his wet or
dry suit. If a wreck diver's quick release buckle were to get
snagged and released while inside a wreck, he could find himself
plastered to the wreck's ceiling. The answer is to install two
buckles to your weight belt. Only use the first while outside a
wreck, and then before beginning any penetration, clamp the second
buckle shut. This will give you the added security needed inside
while allowing for an emergency outside or on the surface. Divers
should also only attach expendable items to a weight belt. In an
emergency, you should not even have to think twice about dropping
the belt.
 A short story comes to mind that will put this in better
perspective. I was on a charter boat once when a diver surfaced. He
was having a problem because he was over weighted and was having a
hard time staying on the surface. Steve Bielenda jumped in,
approached the man and yelled at him to drop his weights. He refused
and was now gulping for air as he kicked frantically to remain on
the surface. Steve's next move was nothing less than brilliant. He
said, "Hand me your weight belt and I'll swim it back to the boat
for you."; The diver quickly released the heavy belt with bug bag
and light attached and handed it over. Steve grabbed the belt,
pulled it away so as not to catch on any of his gear and released
it. Both returned to the boat safely, and the belt was retrieved on
our next dive. The moral is that because the diver had his expensive
dive light and mesh bag with a two pound lobster init attached to
his weight belt, he was un-willing to part with it even in an
emergency situation.
 HARNESS
A harness is made of nylon web belt, and its design and construction
vary greatly depending on the manufacturer. Most harnesses provide
secure D-Rings for attaching lights, reels and tools. Using a
harness is optional and a personal preference.
 DIVE KNIVES
It is essential for all wreck divers to wear at least one dive
knife, and it is also highly recommended to have a back up knife.
Almost any manufacturer's knives will do, but bear in mind that you
get what you pay for. The first choice is what blade alloy to buy.
Stainless steel varies greatly in its strength, durability and rust
inhibiting factors. For example, 304 series stainless offers
excellent resistance to rust but needs sharpening often and should
not be used for prying. 420 series stainless contains less
chrome and is less resistant to rust. This alloy is very tough and
holds its edge longer then the 304 series. 440series stainless is a
high carbon alloy. Blades made of this alloy will stay sharp for
quite awhile. The down side is that the blade will rust and it is a
little brittle. Knives made of 440stainless should not be used for
prying. As a main knife, I prefer to wear a medium size blade,
solidly constructed with a portion of the blade serrated.
 This
serration allows easier cutting of heavy rope. Other options
available in dive knives include ground in line cutters and a solid
metal butt on the backend of the handle to use as a tap hammer. I
also wear a small sharp back up knife attached to the side of my
gauge console. Other divers wear both knives on their legs or mount
the back up knife to their buoyancy compensator. As aside note, many
wreck divers choose to attach their leg mounted knives with the use
of surgical tubing. By doing so, they simply pull the knives up
their leg to the predetermined location and do not have to fumble
with small buckles when suiting up. Others glue neoprene knife
pockets onto their suits. I happen to enjoy the new elastic straps
and quick release buckle connections that are now on the market. The
main important adaptation that must be preformed to some store
bought knives is that a wreck diver's knife must be very sharp at
all times. This is because in and around shipwrecks, we encounter
monofilament lines, discarded penetration lines, anchor lines, and
other nets and ropes of all sizes. Each of these could be
potentially hazardous if entanglement occurred, and a good sharp
knife will assure us an easy escape. A back up knife serves the same
function in the case when a main knife is lost or cannot be easily
reached.
One way to sharpen your knife is to simply buy a good cross hatched
fine metal file from any hardware store. Don't try to get a perfect
edge; simply file both sides and leave the ragged razor-like burr on
the edge. It's this burr that will slice through rope better than a
honed blade. The one down side to sharpening in this manner is that
the knife will dull rapidly, so sharpening will be necessary fairly
often. I recommend sharpening before each day of diving. Other more
sophisticated sharpening methods include honing or stone sharpening.
DOUBLE
BANDS
 Double bands are available in many different styles and materials.
Most serious wreck divers try to get bands made out of stainless
steel. These bands are then modified with the addition of a special
wing nut, a threaded shaft and a little spot welding so that a
wrench is not needed to change the tanks. Another design that I have
used for the past few years is velcro double bands. These bands were
designed to hold twin 80 cubic foot tanks with a cross yoke bar or
anything from 72 to100 cubic foot tanks with separate regulators.
This system is especially nice since one tank at a time can be
removed and replaced. The velcro double bands definitely take the
struggle out of changing tanks on a boat deck in any type of rolling
sea, and pony bottles are easily adapted.
TETHER LINE
 A tether line reel is used not only for penetration but as an
emergency up line, for search and recovery, underwater mapping, or
in the case of limited visibility, it can serve as a guide to and
from the dive boat's anchor. Some divers choose to tie knots in the
line every ten feet. By counting the knots as the line is let out,
the diver can tell how far he is from the anchor or how deep into a
wreck he has ventured. Tether line reels can be home made, converted
from construction reels or store bought. Dive Rite Inc., a Florida
based cave diving equipment company, offers a complete line of
reels. These wreck reels are available with stainless steel
construction and contain all of the desired design features such as
sufficient line capacity, lock down screw, and contoured winding
knob. A reel should always have an adequate supply of line for the
depth of water you're diving in. For example, if you're diving in
100 feet of water, your reel should contain no less than 200 feet of
line. This is because of the presence of any current when and if the
reel is used as an up line. Tether line wreck reels normally use a
1/8 white braided nylon line. This line is rated at 1000
pounds. Nylon is preferred because it is strong and somewhat
abrasion resistant, highly visible and sinks. If a floating line
were used, it would have the tendency to get tangled in the diver's
feet as it was unreeled, and it would not stay where it was laid
out. Tether line reels should never be clipped off and allowed to
play out unattended. The reel should be held with one finger firmly
on the spool so that the spool turns only when there is tension on
the line. When reeling in the line, reel just fast enough to
maintain a constant tension on the line. When winding in the line,
make sure the line feeds evenly across the spool face to prevent
jamming. Remember just having a reel is not a substitute for proper
training in wreck penetration.
JERSEY UP LINE
 Many wreck divers who explore deeper shipwrecks prefer to mount a
Jersey Up Line to their tanks. This 5/16 sisal line is wrapped
carefully around a home made reel which is usually about 18 inches
long and six or eight inches in diameter. Out of each end protrudes
an end of the wood shaft or pipe that runs through the reel. The
shaft ends are the diver's handles. Usually a 50 or 100 pound lift
bag is permanently attached to the loose end of the sisal line, and
the whole unit is attached to the diver's tanks by a strip of
elastic cut from a car inner tube. To use the up line, the diver
reaches back for the lower inner tube strap and pulls it off the
bottom handle. He can then grab the bottom handle and pull the
Jersey Reel free. The diver then removes the elastic that keeps the
line from unwinding, puts a little air into the bag and, while
holding both handles, lets the line unwind as the bag rushes to the
surface. Note that if the line is not carefully and neatly wrapped,
it will most certainly pull out of your hands as the bag ascends.
After the bag has surfaced, release some slack then tie the upline
to the wreck. Be certain to select a strong spot with no sharp
edges. He then cuts the line and puts the reel into a mesh bag and
brings the bag with him as he ascends on his own improvised anchor
line. This method is excellent because it not only gives the diver a
good solid durable ascent line, but the lift bag also acts as a
surface marker. Once finished with a safety or decompression hang,
the diver can cut the line close to the surface, fold the lift bag
and swim back to the boat. If done correctly, the diver will be up
current from the boat and can almost drift back. The sisal line that
is dropped back onto the wreck is bio-degradable and, therefore,
causes no environmental marine problems.
JON
LINES
 The term Jon Line was first used after a diver named Jon Hulburt,
who, while doing a dive on the
Andrea Doria discovered that
decompression hangs in rough water or in a current were made much
easier with the use of a short line. This Jon Line is about seven to
15 feet long with a spliced loop at each end. One end attaches to
the anchor line by simply passing an end through the loop and
pulling it snug on the anchor line. The diver or divers (up to three
can use the same line) doing a decompression stop can now hang onto
the loose end behind the anchor line. In rough water, when the
anchor line moves violently up and down, divers using a Jon Line
will not find themselves being lifted from their stop depths, but
able to maintain their depth relatively easily. Also a much desired
benefit of the line is getting the diver out of the crowd. After
completing a stop, the hang depth can be easily moved by making a
fist around the anchor line just below the snug end and sliding the
snug end up. While stage decompression diving is not recommended by
any recreational diving agency, this line will also benefit those
doing safety decompression stops.
I was first shown the Jon Line while diving the
Coimbra
wreck. We had about 14 foot seas on the surface, but with the use of
this easy to make tool, our decompression stops were made more
tolerable. One slight modification to the original design is to
install a stainless steel locking carabineer to one end. For long
stops in a strong current situation, this carabineer can be snapped
onto a secure D-Ring on a harness. This reduces arm fatigue greatly.
LIFT
BAG
 Many wreck divers use lift bags to retrieve objects from the ocean
floor. There are many sizes and styles of lift bags, but the most
common is an open pillow bag. This means the bag has a small opening
at the bottom to allow air to be blown in or expanding air to escape
during ascent. This type of bag is carried commonly by wreck divers
in the 25 to 500 pound sizes. The most common sizes are the 100and
250 pound bags because they can be rolled up into a compact size and
will lift most artifacts. If an object is found that requires more
lift, you can use your buddy's bag in addition and achieve a total
lift of 200 or 500 pounds respectively. It is a good idea to use an
up line when sending a bag to the surface. This line, which is
attached to the bag and the wreck, prevents the bag from drifting
away. Divers can use the line from a tether line reel, a Jersey Reel
or a Line Ball. A Line Ball is simply a ball of strong line bought
in any hardware store. The ball should be wrapped in duct tape with
one end of the string allowed to protrude through the center. This
string is attached to the lift bag before it is sent up. While the
bag ascends, the diver holds the ball as the line, which feeds from
the center of the ball, releases. Once the bag is on the surface,
the diver lets out some slack and ties the ball to a smooth strong
piece of wreckage. Usually each ball contains approximately 350
feet of line, so it can be used on a number of lifts. Line balls are
also very compact but are not as strong as using a Jersey Up Line,
so they should not be used in rough seas or as an ascent line by
divers.
GOODIE BAG
 Goodie bags or Bug bags, Game bags, Tool bags, and Catch bags as
they are commonly called are simply a mesh bag that divers use to
carry lobsters, tools and artifacts. Wreck divers should keep their
bag wrapped up and closed upon itself when starting their dive. The
reason is that an open bag would snag on each and every piece of
wreckage you swim over. After you have caught a lobster or found an
artifact, you can throw the bag over the back of your legs. The bag
is of course also snapped onto the lower portion of a buoyancy
compensator or harness. This keeps the bag form dragging. Some
divers prefer to use a 1/2 inch rope instead of a harness. The
D-Ring rope is approximately two feet long and is spliced into a
loop on one end and has a D-Ring spliced on the other end. The rope
is attached to the diver's tank valve by placing the loop over the
valve before the regulator is attached. This line which usually
hangs over the left shoulder is used to clip the goodie bag. One
other note on bug bags, if you are interested in lobsters, buy a bag
that has nylon material on the top and mesh on the bottom. This
allows you to insert the lobster easily into the bag, without all of
his legs getting caught in the mesh.
SNAPS
Most of the equipment divers bring with them has to be attached.
Most of the time a brass snap and D-Rings are used. Never use quick
spring snaps on your gear. The problem is that these snaps will and
do snap onto almost anything as you swim past. For example, I have
seen a diver who had a quick snap attached to his weight belt get
hooked onto the dive boat's anchor line while descending. Due to the
location of the snap and the size of the rope, he could not get it
disconnected. I had to cut the webbed belt loop that held the snap
to his weight belt. Another time we were shark diving over a
shipwreck. A shark cage was floating behind the boat. My job was to
film the sharks and to act as a safety diver to the paying customers
who were taking turns in the cage. Well, even though we had stated
that no one should dive with a quick snap, one girl did. She didn't
even get all of the way into the cage when the snap clipped into the
wire mesh cage. Again, the diver, her buddy and I couldn't get the
snap off, and I was forced to cut through the cage with bolt
cutters. Another disadvantage of the spring snap is that it is
responsible for a significant amount of equipment loss. For example,
if the snap is clipped onto a strap or even a small diameter D-Ring,
the snap can be opened unintentionally by twisting it so that the
spring gate is forced open. Use either stainless steel locking
carabineers or brass snaps with a sliding gate.
LIGHTS
 As a wreck diver, you will need two different types of lights and,
of course, back up lights. Your main or primary light should be a
powerful, dependable wide beam light capable of illuminating the
wreck's interior darkness. For penetration dives, this primary light
should have a burn time longer than the planned duration of the
dive. For any wreck penetration diving, a second wide-beam backup
light is also needed. The second type of light is a smaller spot
light used to look deep into holes to help you spot lobsters and
artifacts. Remember the location of these lights is critical. Each
should be located in a secure place that doesn't cause a possible
snag yet allows easy access. If your enjoyment comes from lobstering
around shipwrecks, try taping a lobster size gauge to a small
narrow-beam spot light. This combines two items of equipment and
makes it quick and easy to find, catch and measure lobsters without
fumbling around for a gauge. Remember, as with night diving, it is
important never to shine your light into your own or anyone else's
eyes. This would have an immediate negative effect on night vision
ability.
HEAD AND HELMET LIGHTS
 Wreck divers as well as night divers and cave divers have found that
having a light or lights mounted on their head allows the diver to
have free hands while being able to see. There are all types of
helmet lights on the market, or divers can use a little ingenuity
and modify almost any light to be head mounted. A friend of mine,
photographer, Bill Campbell, from New England, adapted two Modular
Super lights to be helmet mounted. These lights, which are a
favorite of wreck divers, are all that Bill needs to make almost
any dive. My own system is a little less extreme: I use a small Mini
C light, which is clipped onto a small piece of neoprene that is
glued onto my hood. This setup allows me to have a back up light in
a location which is out of the way. The light comes in very handy
when I'm engaged in working on artifacts or after I have penetrated
a wreck with a main light and a line reel, I then turn around and
use the head light to navigate out, allowing both hands to reel in
line. One down side to head mounted lights is that while diving in a
dry suit, it increases the amount of head movement which can
increase the amount of leakage through the neck seal. This problem
is usually only temporary until the diver familiarizes himself with
movements that don't cause leakage.
When choosing alight to be head mounted, make sure it is easy to
switch on. Then decide, based on the type of diving you do, whether
you prefer a large main light or a smaller backup light. Cave diving
lights are also excellent for head mounting. These units, with
remote battery packs mounted on a harness or tanks, are extremely
powerful and long lasting.
PROPULSION VEHICLES
 Propulsion devices are a luxury to wreck divers. They allow more
ground to be covered during a dive and have been used successfully
to move quickly to find more productive areas of a wreck. These
units are also very useful when navigating to a wreck from the beach
or, as is covered in the excavation section of this book, as a
digging tool.
FLOATS AND MARKERS
 Markers can be store bought or home made. They are very useful in
marking the location of an artifact for future dives or in marking
the location of a wreck. I have found marker floats very useful in
exploring shallow wrecks that can be reached from the beach. After
successfully navigating to the wreck and sending up a marker, divers
can search the sand surrounding the wreck or do a second dive
without having to spend time relocating the site. Painting markers
with day glow or fluorescent orange paint will make the markers even
more visible.
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Instant Downloadable E-Book
Shipwreck Diving,
by Capt. Dan Berg is a complete how to book about the sport of
wreck diving. This book is packed with information and heavily
illustrated with over 80 sensational color photographs. |
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